Reservations Recommended, Chapter 5 continues: Ordinarily, we hate to dwell on, or even bring up, the sorry work of age upon our fellow diners, but we find that we must in sketching this scene for you, for the diners come in all ages and stages, and the differences count. At many tables are men whose pink pates show beneath longish strands of white hair, whose ruffs of fat hang over their white collars, dining in silence with women who scowl, who seem always to have scowled. ...